Historical Exploration of Niah Cave: An Exciting Journey from Sekadau to Tebedu to Kuching (1)

We are the research and expedition team for Niah Caves at the Indonesia-Malaysia border (Entikong-Tebedu).

BORNEOTRAVEL - TEBEDU, SARAWAK: I feel incredibly fortunate to have explored Borneo, the world's third-largest island, from one end to the other. 

As we know, Borneo is the third-largest island on the planet, spanning 743,330 square kilometers (287,000 square miles)—a land area more than twice the size of Germany.

From Palangka Raya to the Meratus Mountains, then on to Krayan, Sebatik, and now Batu Niah in Miri, I've traveled through regions that border Brunei Darussalam. 

It’s astounding just how vast Borneo is! Particularly in Sarawak, as well as Krayan in North Kalimantan and the Meratus Mountains in South Kalimantan, the landscape remains predominantly green. This verdant expanse is crucial—it must remain green.

The world has a responsibility to protect these areas, not just the local inhabitants. We must safeguard these regions from the threats of deforestation driven by business interests who exploit the land in the name of development and progress. 

Preserving the lush greenery of Borneo is not just about maintaining its natural beauty but also about preserving its ecological balance and cultural heritage for future generations.

An incredibly captivating experience

For a week, I embarked on an in-depth exploration of the border regions of Sarawak, Malaysia, and had an incredibly captivating experience. 

The adventure kicked off on August 7, 2024, when I, along with Clemence Joy, who was driving our Toyota Hilux, his wife Patricia Ganing, and Arbain Rambey, a talented Indonesian photographer, began our journey from the Entikong Border Crossing. 

You might wonder why two Malaysians were traveling with us. 

Let me explain. From August 5-6, 2024, we were in Sekadau, a district in eastern West Kalimantan. This relatively young district, formed from the expansion of Sanggau and bordering Sintang, has a predominantly Dayak population. 

We had been invited as speakers for the Study Day and Anniversary of the Keling Kumang Institute of Technology, an indigenous Dayak-managed higher education institution. 

During these two days, we thoroughly enjoyed the event and took pride in our Dayak heritage as we contributed to setting a record with the Museum of Records of Indonesia (MURI) for being the first indigenous-managed technology institute in the world to simultaneously publish and launch 60 ISBN-registered books in one momentous occasion.

The four of us decided to visit Niah Caves

In Sekadau, the four of us decided to visit Niah Caves. This plan became a reality on August 7. We left Sekadau early in the morning, traveling along the Sanggau - Kembayan road for a lunch stop en route. We then continued our journey by car to the Entikong Border Crossing (Indonesia) and entered Tebedu (Sarawak).

As we crossed the border and entered Sarawak, the landscapes began to transform. The vibrant, bustling atmosphere of the border crossing gave way to the serene and lush surroundings of Sarawak. 

After crossing the border posts of the two nations, we left the Malaysian immigration office and reconvened at a designated point in the parking lot of Tebedu. 

Clemence’s Hilux, having been parked for four days a good 15 kilometers from the border, stood ready. It had been stationed at the café of a Dayak from Indonesia who was now a Malaysian citizen. This vehicle would soon ferry the four of us —Clemence, Patricia, myself, and Arbain Rambey— to Kuching, where we would spend the night in the storied city founded by the White Rajah, Sir James Brooke.

I, along with Arbain, would ride in the car of our friend Louis Ringah Kanyan, driven by his wife. Meanwhile, Clemence and Patricia would be in Dr. Amee Joan’s vehicle, and we planned to meet at the Dayak café not far from the border, located on Lorong 1, Kampung Tebedu Baru. 

After about an hour of savoring the café’s offerings, particularly the famed kopi 0 (black coffee), we boarded the Hilux driven by Clemence.

After about an hour of savoring the café’s offerings, particularly the famed kopi 0 (black coffee), we boarded the Hilux driven by Clemence, the well-known Iban singer of Negeri Jiran.

Upon crossing into the borders of Sarawak, the atmosphere was strikingly different. Although both regions share the same ethnic roots of the Dayak, Sarawak presented a picture of neatness, order, and cleanliness—remarkably different from the often chaotic and honking-filled streets of Kalimantan - Indonesia. Houses and settlements were set back from the roads, offering a stark contrast to the bustling streets of Indonesia. 

Could this difference be attributed to historical factors and the influence of colonial rule? Sarawak was colonized by the British, whereas Indonesia fell under the control of the Dutch East India Company (VOC). 

Perhaps these historical contexts have shaped the character, work ethic, and development of the two regions. This could well be a subject for a future research project.

The road stretching from Tebedu to Kuching

Tebedu (also known as Tibade) is a border town in the Serian division, southwest of Sarawak, Malaysia, situated on the Indonesia-Malaysia border. It serves as the administrative capital for the Tebedu District and is approximately 632 kilometers (393 miles) south of the state capital, Kuching.

As the sun began its slow descent towards the western horizon, painting the sky in hues of amber and crimson, we departed from Lorong 1, Kampung Tebedu Baru. 

The road stretching from Tebedu to Kuching was a masterpiece of modern engineering, a seamless ribbon of asphalt that spoke of meticulous design and flawless execution: smooth and unblemished, stretching wide with its two lanes, neatly divided by a fence. It was a testament to meticulous planning and maintenance.

As Clemence navigated his Hilux along the 632-kilometer (393-mile) stretch from Tebedu to Kuching, my senses were enraptured by the unfolding panorama. 

The panoramic view along the road from Tebedu to Kuching is nothing short of breathtaking. 

As you journey, the landscape unfolds in a series of vivid tableaux: rolling hills adorned with lush greenery, serene stretches of forest giving way to clearings dotted with charming villages, and the distant silhouette of mountains bathed in the soft glow of twilight. Each turn and curve reveals a new layer of the region’s natural beauty, creating a seamless blend of tranquil scenery and well-maintained road that enchants the traveler.

Panoramic vistas along the Tebedu - Kuching road.

The pristine condition of the road, the serene beauty of the twilight-tinged scenery, and the steady rhythm of the vehicle's progress created a harmonious symphony that resonated deeply within me.

Each mile revealed a new facet of the region—lush greenery giving way to gentle hills, villages that appeared like emerald patches amidst the forest, and the occasional silhouette of a distant mountain bathed in the golden glow of dusk. 

The tranquility of the journey contrasted sharply with the clamor and chaos of urban life, inviting reflection and a sense of awe at the seamless fusion of nature and modernity.

The road, though seemingly just a conduit, was a narrative in itself—a bridge between two worlds, where the echoes of history and the present moment converged. 

The journey from Tebedu to Kuching was not merely a passage through physical space but a moving tableau of experiences, offering a poignant reminder of the beauty and order that can emerge from thoughtful stewardship and historical evolution.

What unfolded before me during this journey, and what emotions it stirred, will be the subject of the next chapter in this unfolding narrative. (To be continued)