Historical Exploration of Niah Cave: Trader’s Cave, The Price and Perils of Niah (10)

A close-up view of Gua Dagang (Trader’s Cave) shows the remains of roofless structures still standing, made from very durable belian wood. Photo credit: the author.

The cave's ceiling, reaching heights of 35 to 40 meters, presents a dramatic view. 

Suspended from above are ropes, bamboo, and wooden planks—remnants of a dangerous trade. Collectors would climb these precarious structures to harvest the coveted nests. “So many fell and died right there,” recalls Clemence Joy, a local from Batu Niah, describing the high-risk nature of this work.

Why it’s called "Trader’s Cave"

"Trader’s Cave" is the name given to a key spot in Niah Cave, Borneo, Sarawak, Malaysia, with a rich history linked to the swiftlet nest trade. 

This name highlights the site’s primary role during the swiftlet nesting season, when it served as a bustling center for trading and the exchange of essential goods.

Swiftlet nests from Niah Cave have long been prized in traditional Chinese cuisine, known for their role in making bird’s nest soup, a delicacy esteemed for both its rarity and its luxurious status. 

These nests, composed of swiftlets' hardened saliva, were once worth around USD 500 per kilogram. This substantial value made it possible for collectors to make a decent living from their harvest. However, the risks involved were immense. 

Climbing rickety bamboo poles to collect these nests was not only perilous but often fatal. “There were always casualties,” notes Steven Ganing, a former nest collector. He and others believed that these fatalities were a form of “sacrifice” to appease the spirits, a grim toll for the privilege of harvesting the nests.

Before the National Parks Department built boardwalks, accessing Niah Cave was fraught with danger. Nest collectors and buyers would camp out in a makeshift shelter, known as the "Trader’s Cave," during the nesting season. 

This shelter turned into a lively marketplace where essential goods were traded for nests. The unique currency system meant that one nest could buy a cup of coffee, while a plate of rice and fish curry cost three nests. The high value of the nests was a clear indicator of their importance, not just as a luxury item but as a crucial element of the local economy.

View of Traders Cave, 1959

In 1959, Traders Cave likely presented a scene of both natural and human activity. The cave was used by local collectors and their families, especially during the bird nest collection season. The interior of the cave would have featured a simple structure made from Eusideroxylon zwageri wood, which provided shelter for those involved in this seasonal activity.

In 1959, Traders Cave likely presented a scene of both natural and human activity. Photo Credit: Managed by the Niah Caves Historical Tourism Authority.

The cave's environment would have reflected its utilitarian use, with signs of ongoing habitation and the remnants of trading activities. You might have seen tools and equipment related to bird nest collection, as well as evidence of the trade in nests and other goods with local traders.

The cave's natural features included two wells: one for drinking water and another for bathing and washing. The walls and ceiling of the cave showed signs of weathering, a testament to their long exposure to moisture over millions of years. Overall, the cave in 1959 was a blend of practical use and natural history, shaped by both human activity and the passage of time.

Swiftlets in Niah Cave are protected by law

In contrast to the dangers of the past, today swiftlets in Niah Cave are protected by law. Enterprising individuals have adapted by constructing specialized ‘birdhouses’—dark, enclosed spaces with small entry and exit holes designed to attract swiftlets. 

This modern approach allows for the safe collection of nests without the extreme risks that once defined the trade.

A short distance from the Great Cave, the Painted Cave offers a different kind of historical insight. Here, ancient coffins have rested undisturbed on the sandy floor for over a thousand years. Situated high in a limestone massif, the cave remains dry, preserving ancient burial artifacts like pottery and beads scattered around. 

The Painted Cave's back wall features a 50-meter-long frieze of hematite drawings. Some depict dynamic human figures, possibly engaged in dance or hunting, while others resemble boats with numerous paddlers, which might represent ‘ships of the dead’ ferrying the departed to the afterlife. 

The mystery of the site

This site was used for burial, and the coffins found here resemble boats, adding to the mystery of the site. The origins of these paintings, who created them, and their purposes remain largely unknown. Many questions about the Painted Cave continue to intrigue scholars and visitors alike, leaving some mysteries unsolved.

Both Trader’s Cave and Painted Cave are more than just historical sites; they provide profound insights into the ancient peoples' lives, beliefs, and practices. 

These locations enhance our understanding of history, illustrating the high costs and deep significance of the traditions that shaped the lives of those who came before us.

-- Masri Sareb Putra