Kakaban: A Slice of Paradise in the Heart of Borneo

Kakaban Island, covering 774.2 hectares, is one of the 31 islands in the Derawan Archipelago, Berau Regency, East Kalimantan. Photo credit: Eremespe.

🌍 BALIKPAPAN | BORNEOTRAVEL:   Indonesia is a land of wonders, teeming with cultural richness, natural splendor, and biodiversity. Just when you think you've explored its marvels, another hidden gem emerges, waiting to be discovered. 

One such extraordinary destination is Kakaban Island in East Kalimantan —an ecological wonder that captivates adventurers and scientists alike.

The Geography and Formation of Kakaban Island

Kakaban Island, covering 774.2 hectares, is one of the 31 islands in the Derawan Archipelago, Berau Regency, East Kalimantan. Formed by geological uplift over thousands of years, Kakaban is a coral atoll with a unique feature —an enclosed brackish lake occupying nearly two-thirds of the island. 

Met a foreign tourist on Kakaban Island: fellow nature enthusiast. Photo credit: Eremespe.

The island derives its name from the local term “Kakaban,” meaning “hug,” referring to its distinctive 9-shaped contour that encloses the lake at its center. This natural fortress has created a habitat unlike any other, fostering evolutionary marvels within its waters.

Kakaban Lake: An Evolutionary Marvel

Kakaban Lake, designated as a government nature reserve and nominated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2004, is an ecological masterpiece. It shares similarities with open-sea ecosystems but has evolved in isolation, creating a unique environment where marine life has adapted in fascinating ways.

The lake’s warm, brackish waters, ranging from 11 to 17 meters deep, harbor an extraordinary concentration of marine species. Among them are four species of stingless jellyfish—an evolutionary anomaly caused by the absence of natural predators. These jellyfish have lost their ability to sting, making Kakaban one of only two places on Earth where such creatures exist, the other being Jellyfish Lake in Palau, Micronesia.

Other adaptations within the lake include:

• The deadly box jellyfish shrinking to a fraction of its usual size and losing its venom.

• The spotted jellyfish evolving into a translucent form, shedding its signature spots.

• The upside-down jellyfish (Cassiopeia) positioning itself with tentacles facing upward to harness sunlight for photosynthesis.

• A white anemone evolving into a passive predator of jellyfish.

• Eight species of fish, sea cucumbers, sponges, crabs, snakes, and vibrantly colored clams, all thriving in this enclosed ecosystem.

Preserving Kakaban’s Fragile Ecosystem

Due to its fragile biodiversity, conservation measures are strictly enforced at Kakaban Lake. Visitors are prohibited from using snorkeling fins, as these may harm the jellyfish. Lifting jellyfish out of the water is strictly forbidden, as is the use of any sunscreen or chemicals that could disrupt the delicate balance of the habitat. Swimmers must enter the lake gently to prevent injury to marine life.

How to Get to Kakaban Island

The journey to Kakaban Island begins with a flight to Kalimarau Airport in Tanjung Redeb, Berau Regency. Several airlines, including Garuda Indonesia, Wings Air, and Sriwijaya Air, operate flights connecting Berau with major cities like Balikpapan, Jakarta, Surabaya, and Samarinda. From Berau, travelers can take a two-hour speedboat ride to the Derawan Islands.

Heaven's Stairway" on Kakaban Island: we climb it to reach the natural lake below, with its crystal-clear, shimmering water. Photo credit: Eremespe.

Accommodations are not available on Kakaban itself, so visitors typically stay on nearby islands such as Maratua, Sangalaki, or Derawan. From these islands, Kakaban is accessible via a short boat ride—approximately 20 minutes from Sangalaki, 30 minutes from Maratua, and 45 minutes from Derawan.

Culinary Delights of Kakaban

A visit to Kakaban is incomplete without sampling its unique local cuisine. One standout delicacy is a dish wrapped in sea urchin shells, consisting of glutinous rice mixed with coconut milk and wrapped in pandan leaves. This traditional dish is cooked for about an hour, resulting in a texture reminiscent of ketupat, yet distinct in preparation and flavor.

A Natural Wonder Worth Preserving

Kakaban Island is not just a paradise for adventure seekers but also a living laboratory for scientists studying evolution and marine biodiversity. Its isolated ecosystem is a testament to nature’s ability to adapt and thrive in unexpected ways. Whether you come for the surreal experience of swimming with stingless jellyfish or to marvel at its pristine beauty, Kakaban is an unforgettable destination that deserves the utmost respect and conservation.

For those who seek the extraordinary, Kakaban Island offers a journey into the heart of one of nature’s most fascinating and fragile ecosystems. It is, indeed, a slice of paradise in the heart of Borneo.

-- Masri Sareb Putra