Mahakam’s Whispering Stones: Tracing the Birth of Bornean Literacy
The sight in front of the Mulawarman History Museum, Tenggarong, East Borneo.
Photo credit: http://www.indofamily.net/travel
🌍 SAMARINDA | BORNEOTRAVEL: If you're traveling to Indonesia, whether for business or leisure, make sure to visit East Kalimantan.
This region offers one of the most fascinating historical experiences not just in Borneo but across the entire archipelago—the legendary Museum Mulawarman.
Where does one begin when discussing Dayak literacy?
Inevitably, any discussion on the written traditions of the Dayak people must start with a historical cornerstone that laid the foundation not only for Dayak literacy but for the written culture of the entire Indonesian archipelago.
Why? Because Kutai, widely recognized as the oldest kingdom in Indonesia, holds a pivotal place in Southeast Asian history. Even records from the Majapahit Empire acknowledge its significance.
Kutai's historical importance is immense. Beyond serving as a pillar of civilization in Nusantara, its ancient inscriptions—etched in the famed "Batu Yupa" (Yupa Stones)—offer a rare glimpse into the social, religious, and political life of early Indonesia.
These Yupa Stone relics not only document an ancient civilization but also illustrate the early fusion of governance and spirituality.
A Firsthand Encounter with History
During one of my visits to East Kalimantan, I hired a taxi from Samarinda and made my way to Kutai Kartanegara. Along the journey, I stopped for lunch —an authentic countryside meal of red rice, satay, and rendang daging payau (venison stew).
As I dined beside the mighty Mahakam River, I watched the traditional klutuk boats churning through the fast-moving currents—a scene that felt like stepping back in time.
Tenggarong, the historical heart of the Kutai kingdom, is a city steeped in legend. For centuries, it thrived as a major hub of trade, culture, and governance. Today, remnants of its glorious past can still be explored in the Museum Mulawarman.
The Living Legacy of the Kutai Kingdom
Following Indonesia’s independence, the former territory of the Kutai Kingdom was integrated into East Kalimantan.
Today, the area has become a major historical and cultural tourism destination, drawing both domestic and international visitors.
No trip to East Kalimantan is complete without a visit to Tenggarong, where one can immerse themselves in the legacy of an empire that flourished more than 1,500 years ago.
The history preserved here extends beyond the 19th and 20th centuries—it reaches deep into the golden age of ancient Nusantara. The Kutai Kingdom played a defining role in the development of early literacy in Indonesia, as evidenced by the region's earliest known inscriptions, the Yupa Stones.
Discovered in Muara Kaman, on the banks of the Mahakam River, these four engraved stones provide the earliest recorded evidence of written language in the region.
Written in Pallava script and Sanskrit, they date back to the 5th century CE, marking a foundational moment in Southeast Asian literacy and governance.
One of these inscriptions even documents the early relationship between religion and the state, emphasizing the role of Hinduism in the kingdom’s governance.
A Museum That Brings History to Life
Museum Mulawarman attracts scholars and tourists alike, drawn to its priceless artifacts and cultural relics. Inside, visitors can marvel at ancient Dayak ceremonial objects, the royal throne of the Kutai monarchs, and even replicas of their grand coronation crowns. One of the most striking pieces —a golden royal crown weighing approximately seven kilograms— is now housed in Jakarta’s National Museum.
Originally built by the Dutch in 1930, the museum is open daily from 8:00 AM to 2:00 PM, except on Fridays when it closes at 11:00 AM. Admission costs a mere 1,000 Indonesian Rupiah (roughly 7 cents USD), making it an accessible yet invaluable historical experience.
The Journey to Tenggarong: A Scenic Route Through Time
Traveling to Tenggarong from Samarinda, the capital of East Kalimantan, is a 39-kilometer journey that takes approximately 1.5 to 2 hours by car. The road weaves through dense forests and past coal mining sites, offering a glimpse into both the region’s natural beauty and its modern industries.
Along the way, roadside stalls serve traditional Kalimantan delicacies, including venison satay and rendang—an absolute must-try for food enthusiasts.
Upon reaching Tenggarong, one can take a moment to admire the Mahakam River. During the rainy season, its currents become dangerously swift, a reminder of the river’s raw power and significance in the lives of local communities.
The most breathtaking views are best enjoyed at sunrise or sunset when golden light dances across the water’s surface, creating a mesmerizing reflection.
The Mahakam is more than just a scenic backdrop; it remains a vital artery for the people of Kalimantan, providing water for drinking, bathing, and transport.
Even today, the river serves as a crucial economic lifeline, facilitating the shipment of Samarinda’s renowned timber rafts downstream.
A Cultural Immer
On either side of the river, visitors can spot traditional wooden houses—some belonging to indigenous Dayak communities. For an even deeper cultural experience, the village of Mancong offers a spectacular glimpse into the architectural grandeur of traditional Dayak lamin (longhouses). These structures, built on stilts and adorned with intricate carvings, stand as enduring testaments to the island’s indigenous heritage.
For history lovers, literature enthusiasts, and cultural explorers, Museum Mulawarman and the surrounding region offer a rare opportunity to walk in the footsteps of an ancient civilization. Whether it’s through the lens of Dayak literacy, the magnificence of Kutai’s royal history, or the eternal significance of the Mahakam River, East Kalimantan is a place where the past speaks to the present—a destination where history is not just preserved, but truly comes alive.
-- Masri Sareb Putra, M.A.
Borneo Travel
BORNEO TRAVEL is a blog specifically dedicated to domestic and foreign tourists who want to have a vacation, or have an adventure to enjoy the sensation of ecotourism, even those who intend to do research on the island of Borneo which is the third largest island in the world after Greenland and Papua. This island is not only exotic with various world attractions, but also rich in culture and biodiversity that will make anyone fall in love.
