Navigating West Kalimantan: A Journey Through Rivers, History, and Coastal Beauty

The breathtaking panorama of the Ketapang–Pontianak–Ketapang maritime journey, captured from a speedboat. Photo credit: Rangkaya Bada.

🌍 PONTIANAK | BORNEOTRAVEL:  For those seeking efficiency, the quickest way to reach Ketapang is by air. Wings Air operates small turboprop flights from Pontianak, covering the distance in just 30 minutes. 

Though brief, the journey offers a stunning aerial perspective of Borneo’s vast and intricate river systems. 

From above, the landscape unfolds like a giant green tapestry woven with meandering waterways—so much so that the island has earned the nickname "Island of a Thousand Rivers."

Flying over West Kalimantan also provides a striking contrast between untouched rainforests and areas transformed by human activity. 

Large swaths of land bear the geometric patterns of oil palm plantations, underscoring the ongoing debate over conservation and development. 

As the plane descends toward Ketapang, the coastline comes into view, where the Kapuas River meets the sea, hinting at the maritime culture that has shaped the region for centuries.

Upon landing, visitors are greeted by the unhurried pace of life in Ketapang, a town with a rich trading history that once connected Borneo’s interior with the global spice trade. 

Today, it serves as a gateway to adventure, offering a blend of cultural exploration and natural wonders.

Through Rivers and Open Waters: A True Adventurer’s Route

For travelers who prefer to embrace the raw essence of Borneo, the river and sea route is the ideal choice. 

Departing from Pontianak’s harbor, speedboats first navigate the mighty Kapuas River —the longest in Indonesia— before breaking into the open sea. 

Departing from Pontianak’s harbor, speedboats first navigate the mighty Kapuas River. Photo credit: the writer.

The journey takes approximately four hours before reaching Sukadana Port, a crucial access point to Ketapang. 

Alternatively, those looking for a more local experience can depart from Rasau Jaya, a smaller port 30 kilometers from Supadio International Airport.

This waterborne journey is as much an adventure as it is a passage through time. The Kapuas River has long served as the lifeblood of the Dayak people, providing transportation, food, and a means of trade. Even today, wooden boats glide along its banks, carrying everything from fresh produce to construction materials.

As the boat leaves the river behind and enters the open waters, the experience shifts. 

On a calm day, the sea sparkles under the tropical sun, offering a smooth ride. But when the waves grow restless, the trip becomes a thrilling dance with nature. 

The speedboat, guided by skilled pilots, moves strategically to avoid crashing head-on into the swells, ensuring a ride that is exhilarating but not reckless.

Beyond the physical journey, there’s a psychological shift as well. The farther one travels from the mainland, the more one feels the remoteness of Borneo. Here, the ocean and sky stretch endlessly, and time seems to slow, allowing travelers to fully absorb the rhythm of island life.

The Coastal Tapestry: Swaying Palms and Echoes of an Ancient Kingdom

One of the most enchanting aspects of the Pontianak–Ketapang route is the ever-changing coastal scenery. Towering coconut palms dot the shoreline, their fronds swaying like the graceful hands of a traditional dancer, offering a silent yet mesmerizing welcome to passing travelers. 

Against the backdrop of golden sands and the rhythmic waves, the landscape exudes an exotic charm that is both soothing and awe-inspiring.

This coastline is more than just a visual delight—it is steeped in history. 

Long before the arrival of Majapahit’s influence and its vassal states in the 14th century, this region was home to the powerful Tanjungpura Kingdom. 

The kingdom’s legacy still lingers in the former royal centers of Matan and Sukadana, where traces of ancient governance remain visible in historical sites and local folklore. The lesser-known Ulu Aik Kingdom, recorded in colonial archives, adds another layer to the region’s rich past.

Sukadana, in particular, has drawn the attention of historians. Mentioned in both Majapahit and European colonial records, it was once a thriving port, where traders from China, India, and the Middle East converged. 

The remnants of this era still whisper through the town’s streets, where traditional wooden houses stand as silent witnesses to centuries of trade and cultural exchange.

For modern travelers, Ketapang is not just a destination—it is an experience that bridges the past and present. 

Whether soaring above its rivers, riding the waves to its shores, or standing beneath the swaying palms of its coastline, one can feel the island’s enduring rhythm. For centuries, Borneo has remained both mysterious and mesmerizing, captivating all who journey through its lands and waters.

-- Rangkaya Bada